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Scrutape's life in El Salvador

Wednesday, May 24, 2006

Estelí/Granada: Tourism Part II

Cigar Factory in Estelí

Estelí is known for it’s cigars, thus, I felt compelled to visit at least one factory before I made my way to Masaya (way too commercialized and not all that) en route to Granada. The following pictures were taken from Nick’s Cigar shop an impressive complex whose overpowering smell of tobacco killed off any taste of trying an individual cigar.

This was a first for me in witnessing how cigars are made. As you can see, the process can be broken down into 6 parts (grossly simplifying, fyi and I only show 5 photos on topic): The tobacco is rolled, sealed, pressed (for uniformity), sorted (by color so that each box will have cigars of like color) and stored followed by the presentation/marketing. They wanted way too much for their cigars; the last picture shows their top of the line that goes for $100. They were kind enough to give me a few samples, but I wasn’t impressed with the taste, especially for the price. In reality I did enjoy the Cuba Libre’s I bought in Granada.

I did want to purchase a particular brand of cigar that they rolled there in shop, but because it was a private label they could not sell them to me! So get this, to get the cigars that I want, the ones that were right in front of me I have to order them online and have them shipped to my address in the states. Isn’t that simply silly? Am I silly enough to do it? Yup, pick them up when I visit my friend in September, haha.
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Also, as I was impressed by the process, I did also think about prolonged exposure to high levels of nicotine either seeped in the skin by handling to tobacco leaves or by the constant smoking done by the foremen. It made me think how it effects the neurochemistry of the passive smoker not to mention the propensity for other ailments due to excessive repetitious work. It makes you think, makes me think anyhow.

Scenic Shots of Granada

The preserved colonial architecture is very impressive in this city. Of course these shots do not do the city justice in trying to exemplify the sheer mix of color and style of the city, but this is but a taste. Also, not far from these shots is the stark reality of extreme poverty Nicaraguans face (when you can find them in Granada, it’s a city mostly run and walked by foreigners)
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Your Affectionate Volunteer,

SCRUTAPE

Wednesday, May 17, 2006

León Part I: Tourism

I’ve decided to divide the photos of León into three separate blogs: Tourism, Politics and Sandino/Murals.

La Catedral

Most pictures were taken from atop the cathedral or from the adjoining streets. The Cathedral of León is an impressive structure, the largest in Central America. My friend and I took the tour of the cúpulas (domes) with a guia (guide) who led a well informed historical account of the Church and the city. For instance, each barrio in León has its own church and most of the churches are connected through a series of tunnels that were used during la revolución to protect the valuables and religious relics of the Church.
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Taken atop La Catedral, you can see central park and la alcaldía (city hall), ps, the alcaldía of Sesori looks nothing like this one, it’s, well, a tad humbler.
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Atop The Cathedral
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The garden cloistered within the cathedral. The is the oldest part of the cathedral as it was it was first to be constructed.
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Boulevard by The Cathedral
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Mental Health Clinic! I thought with was cool since mental health is often over looked in Latin America. Interesting enough the paper in Nicaragua had quite a few articles concerning sexual abuse and awareness. Although such announcements exist in El Salvador they pale in comparison to the amount of attention Nicaragua gives the subject, at least in the periodical. El Salvador does have a rather blunt “in your face” add concerning incestual sexual abuse that’s often heard on the radio.
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Random Church
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La 21 (Museo de Tradiciones y Leyendas)
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The guide books should give this place more credit, more a place for people who already have a knowledge of both latin mythology and of Somoza’s Guardia Nacional (I went in with little to none and still enjoyed it). This place serves two purposes, one, to show the fort where the Guardia Nacional kept prisoner’s and where and how they tortured them. Many of the methods would make Cheney and Rumsfeld smile, many prisoners were brutal tortured, for instance, some had their teeth filed down to stubs, excessive beating, shock torture and water torture to name a few. Somoza was an evil man we helped put in power and aided in his offspring to retain control of Nicaragua for our own personal financial interests (but of course, we don't do that anymore...uh yeah). More info on the political entry which I should post next week.

Riley and Erica by the Water Torture area, how romantic!
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Examples of the brutality
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Guerillas!
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The musem also offers papier-mâché representations of various legends in the region. I admit, I’m pretty ignorant about our legends, I should have paid more attention to my grandmas’ when they told me them when I was younger, the only one I recognized was La Llorona (the most popular myth in my opinion). I remember one particular cousin, Jesse, recounting various Mexican myths and legends scaring the crap out of me a long time ago, I wonder if he still remembers them? (personal note, ask Jesse when I see him and write them all down then beat him down). Fortunatly upon talking to the Director of the Casa de la Cultura in my site about my lack of legend and mythology knowledge, she was nice enough to lend me two books that she said would help me, “Cuentos de Barro” and “Tradición Oral de El Salvador”.
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Your Affectionate Volunteer,

SCRUTAPE

Monday, May 01, 2006

The 1st of May

I am writing this with very little knowledge of what transpired today in the States. I had a moment today to watch a little bit of CNN en Español which showed the huge waves of people participating in the national boycott. Its presence was felt even here in El Salvador where several stores denied the sale of American products and posted signs of solidarity. In what little way I could to show support, I did not purchase an American product (but even if i did, I couldn’t, because I tried out of curiosity).

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My feelings about the immigration bills and the boycott are not original and felt by many, in an email I recently sent out to a friend I said, “I do agree that something must be done because the criminalization of immigrants simply isn’t the answer. My own personal view is investment in our neighboring countries. Not just NAFTA and CAFTA type stuff, I’m talking heavy investing, taking money out of the war and into development, only that way can you create stability and curb the wave of immigration. Not that it’s a bad thing for us, but this increase in immigrants is a tax to several of our systems set in place for Americans. In the end it’s about helping the global community rather than exploiting it (the case for both ends of the argument).”

May 1st also marked the change of administration here in my community. It began at 8:05 am with when the areneros crossed the threshold of the alcaldia. The new alcalde was accompanied with his new consejo and several supporters. It was a long process taking most of the day; locks were changed, official seals were destroyed and everywhere a PDC worker (now an ARENA worker) were informing someone from the ARENA camp consejo about their work. Goverment officals were present to facilitate the change over and police stood guard outside. It was a peaceful process, right up until the end where one arenero accused the old alcalde of stealing lamina and hording it in the office of the Unidad de Salud. It was in bad taste to do this and for something that seems so petty. The truth of it should have been discussed at a later time and among officials of the court.

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By 4:00 pm the new alcalde with his consejo were in the mayor’s office celebrating their victory. I now offically have a new alcalde, many of my friends have quit or will be either fired or relocated. My personal views about the change I will keep to myself for the time being and perhaps in a later blog, as an update I will reveal my feelings on the matter. Until then I look forward to tomorrow and my remaining time here.

Your Affectionate Volunteer,

SCRUTAPE