Left, Right and Center

So I get this random comment from someone somewhere in cyber space who happen to stumble upon my blog. He posted a really interested point, to paraphrase, why did campesinsovote ARENA and urban San Salvador vote FMLN?

It’s an interesting point and although I don’t claim to have all the answers, just ideas I’ve been thinking about it. My intial feeling about the campesinos was expressed in an interview with the mayor of San Miguel, Wilfred “Will” Salgado, “Les respondo que aquí siempre va ganar el que más sale en televisión y al que más saquen en los periódicos” (La Prensa Gráfica 26/3/06), I respond that in this country the winner is always the one that comes out on television and comes out in the newspapers.

Mr. Salgado was talking about ARENA and I agreed. The ARENA propaganda drowned out all other parties during the political campaign (they could afford to do so). I felt the poor rural folk were dupped into voting for ARENA because that’s all they heard for two solid months along with a string of promises and a lot of scare tactics. Although that may play a part, I’m starting to realize, upon further discussion with Salvadorans and American’s alike and with the help of statistics that were complied after the election, most FMLN voters are highly educated middle to high income urban class! Hence why the big cities are FMLN. ARENA is composed mostly of the rural poor. Crazy? Oh, it get’s crazier. The “face” of FMLN is the poor working class farmer, ARENA, the posh urban elite.

But why are these highly educated urbanites voting for a party that is communist anti-globalization? All of the progressive thinkers either quite FMLN or were kicked out. Hmmm…well, it is very possible that with the death of the hard liner leaders, FMLN is emphasizing the nationistic focus, domestic issues rather than be the US’s chew toy, so a more socialist spin. For that, I can understand a Salvadorian professional who would want a party that reintated national priorities such as getting their unit of currency back into circultion.

But that isn’t good buisness for the elite, and thus, we have a divide. The elite, big buisness, ARENA, but these are small numbers, but these few control the nation. Then you have a large sector of young educated professionals, FMLN. Once you leave the urban sprawls you have rural poor who simply hated the war, especially the campesinos where you either hated the guerillas or sympathized wholly. There is no in-between, for this reason it is a very touchly subject for a Salvadorian to talk to an outsider about it. Only now I’m beginning to build the trust to hear these stories, on both sides. No one was the good guy during this war, they both did terribly evil deeds to each other. And they vote, well, any party BUT FMLN. Morazan is still a surprise to me because this is a largely guerilla department. But, as I stated in a previous blog, ARENA did some shady deals along the borders (eg, importing Salva’s from Honduras to vote ARENA with economic compensation).

So, there’s my thought, still forming though. Thanks for bringing up a good point, whoever you are.

Your Affectionate Volunteer,

Scrutape

A More Pragmatic Left?

History: The US backed the right-winged dictatorships in Latin America in the 70’s and 80’s to halt the growing left, born of Cuban-Soviet influence.

Socialism: a social and economic system (or the political philosophy advocating such a system) in which the economic means of production are controlled by the people. This control may be either direct, exercised through popular collectives such as workers' councils, or it may be indirect, exercised through a State. A primary concern of socialism (and, according to some, its defining feature) is social equality and an equitable distribution of wealth that would serve the interests of society as a whole. (from wikipedia)

Latin-American Socialism: Greater state control (which in Latin America tends to lead to a more concentrated grip on government). But while Cuba, Venezuela and Chile all claim some form of socialism, they really enact their policies quite differently.

The left has a lot of appeal to it. Marketable appeal that is and for many of the younger FMLN kids that run around in their red shirts baring their fallen leader Shafik screaming yo quiero mi colón (I want my colon [their former unit of currency until they converted to the dollar in 2001]) hating on the States and all that goes with it, one wonders if this is a real political statement that they fully understand or just something that’s in among the young. I was in an urban bus in San Salvador and I noticed a youth passing by wearing a t-shirt that bore the image of Sub-Comandante Marcos, or Delegante Zero I suppose he wants to be called now (he was recently in the news, check out Newsweek International 16/3/06). I wondered if he wore it for a political reason, was it sympathy for left, indigenousness right (I’m 99% sure it wasn’t that) or just because it looked cool.

Hmmm, and I also wondered, “where can I get my hands on one of those”.

In El Salvador, remesas (readmitances) amount to a large about of their GDP and that percentage went up this year. Basically, state bound Latinos who sent money to El Salvador are single handedly keeping El Salvador from economic ruin. Do they (being the hard left) really understand the gravity of the situation and what would happen to their country under communist rule? I think the romantic idea of it has swept many of the young while the hardliner guerillas of the past still hold on to the anti-globalization anti-American sentiment of our past mistakes in, well, setting up really nasty dictatorships…eh, I’d still be pissed too I suppose.

Now, the only reason I write this is because I am one of these kids that tote the red and occasionally raise my left hand showing the victory sign, hell my myspace quote is a direct quote from the hard left. But for me, it is simply “the black” that I couldn’t wear as a kid, a romantic idea that has no bearing on my political reality. But what I do like is that fact that these people have a left and a strong one at that as does the Western European world. El Salvador has a moderate left, I’m hoping one day they’ll realize that too, hmmm, maybe I should be wearing yellow instead (the color of the center left party), kinda hard since it isn’t my color, you know, my skin tone, etc. doesn't match well :)

Okay, old habits die hard, forgive me.

During my time here I have educated myself on the history of this country and their political parties now reading up on Nicaragua and the Sandinistas and the whole Iran-Contra scandal. Though far from an expert I have learned a great deal about the far left and what that really means. I suspect many do not and to quote Alain de Janvry are really no more than “armchair revolutionaries”.

So, even though I wear red I just do because it looks cool and it gets a rise out of people. Speaking of which, I'm shopping for a red shirt (collared, long sleeve, of a cotton, nylon blend of a matte color) for swearing in. This would be so much easier in the states...but not as fun.

Hasta La Victoria…

Your Affectionate Volunteer,

Scrutape

Monseñor Romero

"Brothers, you came from our own people. You are killing your own brothers. Any human order to kill must be subordinate to the law of God, which says, 'Thou shalt not kill'. No soldier is obliged to obey an order contrary to the law of God. No one has to obey an immoral law. It is high time you obeyed your consciences rather than sinful orders. The church cannot remain silent before such an abomination. ... In the name of God, in the name of this suffering people whose cry rises to heaven more loudly each day, I implore you, I beg you, I order you: stop the repression."
– Monseñor Romero

Tomorrow is the anniversary of the death of Monseñor Óscar Arnulfo Romero y Galdámez, the famous archbishop of El Salvador who was assassinated on March 24, 1980 while giving mass. The importance of Romero, why he is so revered in this country (where his image is literally painted on almost every wall) and around the world was what the man stood against and who he stood for. During the civil war that ravaged El Salvador Monseñor Romero witnessed many injustices and began to speak for the poor and for the victims of the war. As a result he was seen as an enemy by the government and was denounced by the Catholic Church. The founder of the ARENA party, Major Roberto D'Aubuisson, a US trained solider and member of the Salvadorian death squads, is believed to be the culprit in Monseñor Romero’s assassination.

Monseñor Romero was an orthodox Catholic priest who was appointed archbishop to quell the radical liberation theology that was being spread among priests, as hoped by the reigning government. During his administration as archbishop a fellow priest and friend, Rutilio Grande was assassinated. Romero sought the government for an investigation but the administration turned a blind eye. During this time he continued to see injustice unfold during the war years and choice to speak against it. His strength inspired many of the Salvadorian campesinos and others who found themselves victims of human injustice during the war. Through the death squads, bombings and murders of Catholic priests, Monseñor Romero continued to speak against the violence until his death.

Whether you are a Catholic or not, the writings of Monseñor Romero can be applied to all and speak of a humanitarian consciousness that we should all strive for. They are intelligently written and at the same time easily ingestible.

There are only two Catholic priests in my life that have inspired spiritually and intellectually: Father Tom of Our Lady of Talpa Church and Monseñor Romero.

Entre Pinos

The pueblo of San Ignacio is a quiet tourist town in the northern central region of El Salvador, held within the department of Chalatenango. Nestled among the pines and artisans you’ll find the resort hotel of Entre Pinos, an impressive complex, it’s topography chiseled from land, much like a similar hotel found on the other side of the country (La Lenca in the city of Perkin, department of Morazan) but the amenities offered is an impressive buffet that takes advantage of the terrain and beauty of this department. Extras such as tennis and basketball courts, horseback riding, hiking, and two swimming pools are available. The feel of the place is very welcoming, a place of refuge amongst the blind-dead stares found in many of the rural areas.

It was here, amidst the lovers, hiding behind the pines and in the hammocks that littered the entire complex, stealing kisses from week long waiting, friends embracing after a month long absence, and in the sea of green (as it was St. Patrick’s Day after all) I found myself thinking of my projects within Peace Corps, bouncing ideas of one another, of my trip to Nicaragua which is up and coming, Mexico after that, the history of this place, of life loved and lost. As I looked over a point that showed a view of Guatemala, Honduras and El Salvador, the horse beneath me stirring and fighting, I thought of the fallen, of love and war, sickness and distain.

By some unknown reason the horse was responsive to my commands and we galloped back, my blood racing with the wind and my mind became blank, with only the rushing of blood and the beating of my temples competing with sounds of the world I often forget I inhabit.

It was a long weekend with a layover in the capital, there I enjoy good company and we ate Gouda cheese, pesto sauce, a loaf of bread and bottle of Chilean wine. Talk of work, life, the educational system of the United States and El Salvador, language, dialect and distinctions of the two, both in opportunity and culture filled the night.

The weekend was much needed. Tonight, I think I will make Hummus as a snack before dinner.

Your Affectionate Volunteer,

Scrutape

Left Field

In the battle over San Salvador, yesterday, the FMLN was declared victorious (by about 40 votes).

In celebration I went to the mall and bought a red shirt :) But the problem was, the shirt is so new and so nice that I realized that I didn't have anything pants to wear with the shirt...so I bought a pair of pants. Now, as I looked into the mirror and saw myself, to have clothes that actually fit lacking the ware of hand washing and sun bleaching, I saw the chic urbanite of yore, he who came before...when I changed back into my tattered apparel, I was left confused on who I liked better.

Hmmm.

Off to the central-north part of the country.

Your Affectionate Volunteer,

Scrutape

The Ties That Bind

Yesterday: He sat in the desk of my counterpart, quietly sitting down as I typed away on the computer uploading blogs, reading and responding to emails. All the while I felt his gaze on the back of my head. I said something banal (the subject I do not remember), a sort of space filler that seemed to fit with noise of the air conditioner and typing. It was then that he just began, at first talking to me, but later, as I began to realize, a sort of one way dialogue justifiying himself, commenting on democracy, it was like fliping to chanel only to realice it was the same station. I was nothing more than someone who could not judge him, first because I don’t know him, and because of my position in Sesori being an officially neurtal one.
His eyes were red, probably from crying or lack of sleep, or both, his noise ran and he blamed it all on a cold. He spoke of loyalties, to his family first and his friends second, he reasoned why he voted for ARENA rather than PDC. It wasn’t anything personal against Don René (the current mayor), he was a good man he argued. And although they didn’t see eye to eye on many things, he still made the effort to prove to me (or himself) that that was not the reason for his voting performance. If he could, he shared, he would not have voted at all for alcalde, or if he could, he would have voted for both. But he felt complelled to act in one way or another.

For that response I respect the man, and the others who have grown up with the candidates and were forced to choose between friendship, family, and ideals. The mood it still stale amongst the workers, but as the days are passing, they are smiling more and quick with a joke.

Yesterday I met a man I did not respect, a man who decided to lie on the fences and wait to see what passes. The heat is getting worse here in Sesori and I finally broke down and bought a fan. The owner asked me about the election results, I shared what I knew and asked what he thought of the descision. He leaned back in his chair and shared that it made no difference to him, and to avoid conflicts he didn’t vote for mayor but for the senators.

In the streets the areneros stood by the new mayor’s house, a massive two story buidling remincent of a some some failed Greek architect that sticks out like a sore thumb. To be fare, many of the newer houses clash with one another, the newer ones more obscene than the older. The Areneros are preparing a victory celebration this weekend in my town (one of several reason I will not be there). I shook their hands and congratulate them, knowing that when they arrive, many of my friends will no longer be employed. It’s something that’s been bothering me as of late.

San Salvador is still undecided. Regardless of the outcome, I believe there is going to be some rioting, especially if ARENA takes overs. Right now The Supreme Electoral Tribunal (TSE in Spanish) are looking over and declaring if the invalid (inpunado) votes can or cannot be counted, 83 are in debate. This has me questioning the legality of this. Apparently, as the gossip goes, ARENA controls the government, thus, controls the TSE and is using the TSE in an attempt to get more votes. The legality of this entire process is in question along with other corruption charges such as bringing in outsiders to vote.

All valid votes still place FMLN in the lead by a narrow margin.

I will be away from my computer for the next 4 days or so (I’ll be in the capital tomorrow so if there are any updates I may have access), updates until then.

Happy St. Patty’s Day,

Your Affectionate Volunteer,

Scrutape

White, Blue and Red

Talks of four dissenters were quietly discussed under the low hum of the air-conditioned office of my counterpart. This morning feelings of betrayal were heartfelt as tears filled their eyes. The feeling was somber, but their voices were light-hearted, “asi es” (that’s how it is), “ni modo, solo tres años” (eh, only three years) and other phrases were exchanged as visitors slowly walked inside city hall, each offering their sympathy. Inside the office of Medio Ambiente (where I am located) three of the four dissenters huddled toward one desk and talked of the results. They agree d that they feel bad for the alcalde (mayor) and the sindicto (no idea how to say that in English, his role is the executor of all legal events administered by city hall), but it was the way of things, this system that we helped install, that has put brother against brother, friend against friend.

The elections represent the growing change in El Salvador, from rural farmers to urban consumers. Even the image of these inhabitants has changed, or should I say, part of the systematic process of change that began, at the heart of it, in 1932, when the 1st waves of massacres emptied the indigenous population and indoctrinated shame for those that still carry indigenous traits (of course this was been happening since the Conquest). The papers portray areneros (those who support ARENA) as model yuppies with light skin and neatly cut hair, fashionable, vogue. The efemelistas (those that support FMLN) are dark-skinned indigenousness looking, a working class. The hopeful ARENA candidate for San Salvador is light skinned with blue eyes, the candidate for FMLN has an olive hue and brown eyes.

All of El Salvador is holding its breathe for the results mayoral elections for the cities capital. FMLN currently leads with 45.01% and ARENA with 44.93%. The results will be read at 7pm tonight, according to the papers. Since free elections were held, San Salvador has repeatedly gone FMLN. All political parties not ARENA are pulling for FMLN. The collective distain for ARENA from other political parties was apparent Sunday when the mayor of Moncagua, a municipality south of Sesori’s, upon witnessing the wave of red, white and blue (ARENA’s colors) instructed his followers to vote FMLN. The combined effort was a success and FMLN succeeded in defeating ARENA.

Tomorrow, the results are in…

Your affectionate volunteer,

Scrutape

The Empire Strikes Back

Yesterday marked the end of the 15 year encumbant reign of the PDC (Partido Demócrata Cristiano), or The Christian Democratic Party in my municipality of Sesori. The PDC, an aging party whose original platform of agrarian reform has been slowly fading away inside El Salvadors political relm. In it’s place, known by many names such as, “The Empire” or the “The Evil Empire” as many Peace Corps volunteers believe, has taken yet another stake inside El Salvador. ARENA (Alianza Republicano Nacionalista), or the National Republic Party whose representation of the urban middle/upper class is now controlling yet another important municipality in El Salvador. Other ARENA victories marked the country including a surprise victory (for me anyhow) in the ex-guerilla area of Perkin, home of the revolutionary museum. ARENA now controls most of the municipalities within Morazan (the department where Perkin is located).

This morning I read in La Prensa Grafica that the most important city, San Salvador, has yet to declare a victor due to a dead tie between The Empire, and the far-left FMLN (Faribundo Martí Liberación Naciónal) or the Faribundo Martí Liberation Front, otherwise known as FRENTE (which the composite of 5 guerrilla groups that make the FMLN). Bear with me.

Much talk has been around one particular candidate who broke off from FMLN to form the center-left CD, Cambio Democrático, yup, you guessed it, Democratic Change (a coalition comprised of FDR, Frente Democrático Revolucionario and PNL, Partido Naciónal Liberación) who split the FMLN vote which has caused quite a controversy over the prize of El Salvador, its capital, San Salvador. As of now there is an even draw and both camps have declared victory. More to come on that as I find out the news.

As far as single party dominance, ARENA still has a long way to go as the FMLN has almost equal control of deputies within the legislative branch and ARENA has won many victories by very narrow margins. In the town of Guatejiagua (home to a friend of mine) ARENA won by just three votes.

Because this is only a blog I can state my feeling about this and note that I am speaking as one individual in El Salvador and not as a Peace Corps representative, so here I go:

The growing fear in El Salvador is that it will become a one party government with no real opposition in the horizon. The US friendly ARENA will soon dominate all of El Salvador (this I am sure of) unless a party rises that can truly challenge ARENA. I feel that the far left extremist group FMLN rose in numbers due to the recent death of their leader, Shafik Hándel, but the reality of what I feel is that the FMLN has lost foot and is losing numbers as more and more people embrace capitalism and buy Discmans and Kellogg frosted flakes. My other hope was that FDR, the political arm of FMLN while they were still a guerrilla group could have come back as center-left (that failed, their numbers are even smaller than PDC’s).

Since the death of Shafik I’ve been wearing a lot of red in the hope that these reforms will take place and El Salvador. We’ll, there’s always Chile to look forward to.

The struggle continues,

Your affectionate volunteer,

Scrutape