Taller -- Peace Corps Municipal Development at Work!

As part of our training program we were giving the task of developing a taller (or workshop). This taller was completely left up to us to decide the content, the location, transportation, and my personal favorite, refrijerios (snacks). In this mammoth project we were only giving about three weeks to plan for it, of which, really, only a few days were completely dedicated to the task.

I was part of the group that focused on youth, under the topic of Liderazco (Leadership training), I was specifically in charge of Communication along with two other volunteers (they’re the ones that have that are standing back to back). Although the taller went rather well, it wasn’t without its faults, such as Spanish correction and enunciation, ie, even though we understand our conversational Spanish amongst each other, it does not neccessarily mean a native Spanish speaker would understand (whoops).

I think our most important charla (presentation) was on auto estima (self esteem). I think if you’re going to change behavior you have to work with a group that has a strong sense of self so they can take ownership of a subject/project/etc. Unfortunately, I do not see that here in El Salvadorian Youth. I don’t know if it’s because it’s a collectivist society, but the timid factor, the lack of initiative, and the large amounts of low self esteem (and in my opinion, depression) are quite large. I remember talking to my host sister about these issues, as I saw them in her, she confided that a lot of the girls feel this way, and she doesn’t really know why. But I see a lot of the same thing in the men here too.

There isn’t a vision, like we have in the states, about a future. Since I was a young, I was taught to think about the future, about achieving that goal, and told that I could accomplish anything, and if I failed, to keep trying, and either way, I’d still be loved. It’s not he same here. Emphasis is not put on education, but on work, and the future is based on what you’re father is currently doing (and most likey helping out). Children spend most of their days playing soccer or working. Lack of sex education leads to early pregrnacy, and the cycle just keeps going. Gender roles only hurt this society from advancing by the sheer unencouragement of advanced educated woman.

My own struggle has been whether to advance education, which takes too much time and has little value in this society, or promote trade education, which is quicker to attain and provides decent paying jobs to growing market in need of skilled workers…that also speak English, another obsticle. Okay, this is getting too bleak, so I’ll stop…sorry about that.


Your Affectionate Volunteer,

SCRUTAPE

Middle of Somewhere

In case any of you were wondering, here is a satellite image of Sesori, El Salvador (courtesey of Google WorldDomination™).

Isle Beach

The following pictures are a combination of our two free weekends during training. I’ll have you all know that I single handedly organized both trips…why? Because people are lame and if I don’t do it nothing will get done…and because I am my father’s son, The Guia (The Guide).

The first set shows the secluded isle of Tasajera. It was an quiet island with only us and the propieters, we had a blast, as you can tell. This was the 1st time we actually had the opportunity to all hang together since pre-training in Virginia, we talked a lot, drank a little, and well, you know. I of course did not take part in any of it…I LOVE YOU MOM!!!

The second set is of the beach, El Tunco (which happens to mean pig up here in the 3rd world) due to a rock formations which they say resembles the more commonly known, cerdo (pig). It was here in El Tunco where I went surfing for the first time in my life…I fell in love with it…and I feel many more times than that and almost died on several occasions. There happened to be a “rave” in El Tunco so we experienced the Salvadorian raver scene…which seemed to be the same 99-2000 raver scene that I remember (man I’m getting old). I also met some Salvadorian yuppies which was fun, all decked out in their 80’s drab and screaming, “fuck yeah” every 5 minutes…we left after one of the friends accused the other of loosing her phone and they started to get in a heated argument…oh, it was just like LA!

Your Affectionate Volunteer,

SCRUTAPE

Happy Independence Day El Salvador

¨Today, we celebrate, our Independence Day¨
- ID4

Happy Independence Day El Salvador (September 15)
Below is a little history I found on the internet and wanted share with sitting in your nice 1st world homes, sippin’ on fresh brewed coffee probably grown here, and watching you’re big screen TV in your air conditioned homes with hot running water, big ass refrigrator stocked with low carb foods and Pam, speaking your English language with ease…whoa, sorry, lamenting there.
Anyhow, my own two cents (or 1/6th of a Colon, I should say) worth is found within the text, marked by * *. Enjoy.

On September 15, 1821, El Salvador and the other Central American provinces declared their independence from Spain **and why might I ask?**. In 1823, the United Provinces of Central America was formed by the five Central American states under General Manuel José Arce. When this federation was dissolved in 1838 **to my understanding, it was a failure, but who am I to argue?**, El Salvador became an independent republic. El Salvador's early history as an independent state was marked by frequent revolutions **Spain ran a tight ship at the very least**.
From 1872 to 1898 El Salvador was a prime mover in attempts to reestablish an isthmian federation. The governments of El Salvador, Honduras, and Nicaragua formed the Greater Republic of Central America via the Pact of Amapala in 1895. Although Guatemala and Costa Rica considered joining the Greater Republic (which was rechristened the United States of Central America when its constitution went into effect in 1898), neither country joined **and look at them now, the two power houses of Central America, good job Monique’s family so far you’ve past the tests required to enter our bloodline**. This union, which had planned to establish its capital city at Amapala on the Golfo de Fonseca, did not survive a seizure of power in El Salvador in 1898 **For a country called “The Savior” this country is marked by constant strife**.
The huge profits that coffee yielded as a monoculture export served as an impetus for the process whereby land became concentrated in the hands of an oligarchy of several hundred families. A succession of presidents from the ranks of the Salvadoran oligarchy **um, more like military “presidents”**, nominally both conservative and liberal **all conservative**, throughout the last half of the nineteenth century generally agreed on the promotion of coffee as the predominant cash crop, on the development of infrastructure (railroads and port facilities) primarily in support of the coffee trade, on the elimination of communal landholdings to facilitate further coffee production, on the passage of anti-vagrancy laws to ensure that displaced campesinos and other rural residents provided sufficient labor for the coffee fincas (plantations), and on the suppression of rural discontent **yeah, they were called Death Squads**.
The coffee industry grew inexorably in El Salvador. As a result the elite provided the bulk of the government's financial support through import duties on goods imported with the foreign currencies that coffee sales earned. This support, coupled with the humbler and more mundane mechanisms of corruption, ensured the coffee growers of overwhelming influence within the government and the military which they used to create the Guardia Nacional (GN) in 1912. The duties of the GN differed from those of the Policia Nacional (PN), mainly in that GN personnel were specifically responsible for providing security on the coffee fincas and effectively suppresing rural dissent.
A bloodless coup led by General Tomás Regalado took El Salvador into the twentieth century. Regalado's peaceful transfer of power in 1903 to his handpicked successor, Pedro José Escalón, ushered in a period of comparative stability that extended until the depression-provoked upheaval of 1931-32.
In 1930 General Maximiliano Hernández Martínez, the country's Minister of Defense, took power in a coup d'état. Soon after, Martínez, now President, suppressed a 1932 revolt consisting of farmers and Indians in the western part of the country. The revolt was conducted by the newly formed Communist Party and its leader Agustín Farabundo Martí. The military conflict left more than 20,000 people dead in retaliatory massacres, which came to be known as "La Matanza;" this marked the beginning of a series of de facto military dictatorships that would rule El Salvador until 1979, when General Humberto Romero of the Party of National Conciliation (PCN) would be overthrown in a reformist coup.
Under the authoritarian rule of Maj. Óscar Osorio (1950—56) and Lt. Col. José María Lemus (1956—60) considerable economic progress was made. Lemus was overthrown by a coup, and after a confused period a junta composed of leaders of the National Conciliation party came to power in June, 1961. The junta's candidate, Lt. Col. Julio Adalberto Rivera, was elected president in 1962. He was succeeded in 1967 by Col. Fidel Sánchez Hernández. Relations with Honduras deteriorated in the late 1960s. There was a border clash in 1967, and a four-day war broke out in July, 1969. The Salvadoran forces that had invaded Honduras were withdrawn, but not until 1992 **This was the year the Olympics were in Barcelona…small world** was an agreement settling the border controversy with Honduras signed.
Following increasing clashes between the FMLN **communists and the party that I will loose my brother to when he arrives**, El Salvadoran Armed Forces (ESAF) and rightist vigilantes known as death squads, a civil war broke out that would last 12 years (1980-1992) and claim the lives of approximately 75,000 people. A ceasefire was established in 1992 when the rebels of the FMLN and the government of President Alfredo Cristiani of the Nationalist Republican Alliance (ARENA), signed "Peace accords" on January 16, 1992 that assured political and military reforms; death squad activity was virtually eliminated. However, the accords did not expound on social reforms.
El Salvador is known for the many earthquakes that occur within its borders. It is known popularly as the “Valley of the Hammocks” since colonial times. On January 13, 2001 an earthquake that measured 7.6 on the Richter scale caused a landslide that killed more than 800 people. On February 13, 2001 a second earthquake killed 255 people.
The population density is high. The highest concentration of people is found in the capital, San Salvador.

The Colour and The Shape

These series of photos show the beauty that is El Salvador. Not only is this country filled with vibrant and talkative people, but is also set upon a lush and dynamic landscape. One of the photos shows a coffee finca and the “infernillos” (one with the mayor) in my former host site of Guadelupe. Two shots are of the Volcano in the Depatment of San Viciente, I lived at the base during training. For those of you reading the news, the smoking volcano is way at the other end of where I am, so don’t worry, only about half of us are in danger.

The two shots of the house has an interesting story, during the war the house was riddeled with bullets, one in particular looked like a butterfly and was preserved while the rest of the house was repaired, it serves as a historical landmark and a hostel.

The outdoor scenes are of a beautful city called Suchitoto, along with the waterfall, and the female portrait which belongs to a museum located in the city.

Youth of a Nation

“Must be the colors and the kids that keep me alive”
-Cat Power

Here are a series of children that I’ve had to pleasure to meet during my stay here in El Salvador. Most of these shots were taking from a large pueblo in Berlin, a small cantòn called La Mora (and no, the origins of my family is not this campo, it’s a grand city in Spain, dammit Dad, stop, I can hear you from here), and another pueblo whose name I unfortunately have forgotten. These photos were taking during the training portion of my stay.

The kids here are fascinating and so much fun to play with, I learned so much about how children are raised here, and it baffles me with some of the practiced that are used here. One quick example: soda for breakfast (no thanks, I don’t like diabetes, and my mom paid a lot for my teeth). If you can get them before genders roles change the way they walk and talk and machismo turns the males in to asses they are so open to inter-gender games and not at all apprehensive toward Peace Corps volunteers.

Out of this series of photos, my greatest memory is playing marbles with the brother and sister during the Immersion portion of my training. They were surprised that I didn’t know how to play or hold a marble, and laughed at me…so I took out my ipod and laughed at them. Then I took a bucket bath in a shower that was seriously about 5 feet tall…for those that don’t know, I’m about 6 feet. Yeah, bastards got the best of me.

Lighten Up The Mood

This is to lighten up the mood from the last entry, my friend sent this to me and I made a few adjustments, read only in you’re bored, or want to be amused. I had nothing better to do with my time.

PS. Wourmwood will be updating the website soon

Your affectionate uncle,

SCRUTAPE

YOU KNOW YOU’RE FROM SO-CAL WHEN…YOU COMPARE IT TO EL SALVADOR

The fastest part of your commute is down your driveway.
RM: People don’t have cars here, they walk, or bum rides from people who have cars.

You go to the beach and see that real lifeguards actually do look like
the lifeguards from Baywatch
RM: HAHAHA, lifeguards in El Salvador, they don’t even wear seatbelts and they feed their children sugar for breakfast, c’mon now.

Your monthly house payments exceed your annual income.
RM: House payments range from $60-100. But the annual income is something like $50…okay, I’m being an ass here, but the house payment part is serious.

You drive next to a Rolls Royce and don't notice.
RM: Not in this country, here it’s next to a burro or a bike. Although I have seen a Porche SUV, and two BMW´s!

You begin to "lie" to your friends about where you are (i.e. "Yeah I'm
like 20 minutes away") - when you know that it'll take you at least an
hour to get there).
RM: HAHA, I still do this, it takes 3 hours to get to capital, and when they call me I always respond, ¨I’m almost there, I’m in the capital now,¨ sooo not true, between the stops and the po-po making random stops, its takes time.

You drive to your neighbourhood block party.
RM: HAHA, block parties, I miss that, especially when alcoholism is the number 1 problem here, so even with one drink you’re considered a drunk.

You don't exterminate your roaches, you smoke them.
RM: No, here roaches are big, ugly, radioactively enlarge beasts that have to be slain with a machete.

In the "winter", you can go to the beach and ski at Big Bear on the same
day.
RM: Here, there are only two seasons, wet and dry, and it’s hot all the time.

You eat a different ethnic food for every meal
RM: IT´S THE SAME FUKCING THING EVERYDAY…grease, salt and something fried. So I make my own food.

If your destination is more than 5 minutes away on foot, you're
definitely driving.
RM: I have no choice here, it’s all on foot or bus.

Calling your neighbors requires knowing their area code.
RM: It’s the same area code here…7 for cells, 2 for hardlines.

You know what In N Out is and feel bad for all the other states because
they don't have any.
RM: Oh how I miss you sweet nectar of the gods.

You don't stop at a STOP sign, you do a California Roll.
RM: THESE PEOPLE DRIVE LIKE MANIACS…don’t believe me? Talk to a Salvadorian, OMG, I’ve quickly returned to my catholic roots since driving in these death traps they call cars. Oh gawd, if you only knew. I’m being serious here.

You really can never be too rich or too thin.
RM: Here it’s the opposite. Seriously…seriously.

You've partied in Tijuana at least once.
RM: In December I’ll be in Guatemala, Cancun in June, and at some point, Costa Rica.

You go to a tanning salon before going to the beach.
RM: So far I’ve recieved a facial, and am currently looking to get my eyebrows done, a foot and back massage. I love San Salvador.

You eat pineapple on pizza.
RM: Here you can eat Loroco on your pizza, which is the national flower.

Bars card. For real.
RM: Bars don’t card. For real.

Your cell phone has left a permanent impression on the side of your
head.
RM: Still true here.

You think that Venice is a beach.
RM: They think everyone from the States is white.

The waitress asks if you'd like "carbs" in your meal.
RM: The mesero doesn’t ask, and heavily fries your food and adds extra salt.

You mourned for Tupac and not for Biggie.
RM: Here you mourn for you brother/cousin/aunt that was killed by recent floods, gang slayings, starvation, etc.

You know who the tinsel underwear dude in Venice Beach is. (the guitar
guy on skates lol)
RM: You know all the drunks and hoes on a first name basis…they just call you, ¨gringo¨.

You classify new people you meet by their Area Code. An "818" would
never date a "562" and anyone from "323" or "213" is ghetto/second class or
"909ers". Best area code: "714."
RM: Here anything goes, 30 year old men with 15 year olds, men with tons of illegitimate children, several wives, girlfriends, etc.

You call 911 and they put you on hold.
RM: I wonder if they have that here? Mostly they just rub an egg over your splintered body and pray. I hope I never get sick :/

You have a gym membership because it's mandatory.
RM: Working in the field is your gym, and its mandatory or you’ll die of starvation.

The gym is packed at 3pm...on a workday.
RM: You work until you die. Or you receive money for the US, and in which case you do nothing but watch TV…I know many Salvadorians like this.

You think you are better than the people who live "Over the Hill". It
don't matter which side of the hill you are currently residing, you are
just better than them, for whatever reason.
RM: You know me, you know what I’m thinking, you know I’m ass for thinking what I am thinking, so I won’t type it. Chris understands.

You know that if you drive two miles in any direction you will find a
McDonald's or a Starbucks.
RM: True for McDonalds, not so much for Starbucks…yet….but I’m counting the days!

You know what "sigalert", "PCH", and "the five" mean.
RM: You know ¨regalamelo¨means. Which means when they see your ipod/usb drive/something shiny/something cool they want you to give it to them as a gift. I laugh in their face and say no.

Getting anywhere from point A to point B, no matter what the distance,
takes about "twenty minutes".
RM: Getting anywhere takes HOURS on bumpy ass terrain, where you’re covered in dirt after your journey.

The Terminator is your governor
RM: Finger puppets are theirs.

You can't remember . . . is pot illegal?
RM: Is carrying a machete into a bank legal? Oh yeah, it is.

It's barely sprinkling rain and there's a report on every news station:
"STORM WATCH"
RM: During the rainy season, it really is STORM WATCH…the thunder scares the sh%t out of me still.

You actually get these jokes and pass them on to other friends from
California... if you dont know what this means..do you live under a
rock, and yess..we are in fact Better than you!!
RM: All of this true, and I miss California very much.

A Car Crash & And A Wake

He laid there, crushed beneath two large tires. His face, nestled between two large tires and the rocky asphalt long weathered by the harsh climate. His face, fully visible from my position in the car, held a gaze of disbelief. I wondered how a face could retain such a look. His eye sockets the color of burnt sugar, transfixed into the beyond, but his eyebrows bunched over the empty holes where his eyes should have been. His eyes were now gone from their sockets, likely crushed in the debris of a bus and a very large car. His open wounds, the color of cataracts, split open at his right knee and arm, his body positioned as if climbing a wall, or as if trying to claw his way out of his burnt plastic-asphalt prison.
As we past his body I wondered if I had mistaken the startled look on his face for that of agony. The synapses in my head were creating new connections that never before had been realized. Never seeing a body in such a condition, it was difficult to comprehend the situation. Upon the last electrical ¨snap¨ I pieced my final thoughts: he was alive under those tires, trying to escape, the world gone black for he had lost his eyes, his higher cognitive center of his brain crushed under plastic and asphalt, and giving way only the primitive center, clinging for life, reacting, possessing…and ultimately, dying.

Thus was the scene of the body I saw in the capital of San Miguel. It was to be the 1st of two bodies that night.

The death of an important delegate occurred the night before, a Diputado, the duty of which I am still unsure of, but have heard to be compared to a state representative. After the accident, we went to the wake, located within the military instillation of the capital of the Department of San Miguel, I entered with my Alcalde (mayor), my counterpart and our driver. The compound was filled with important people, none of which I recognized. My mayor shook hands with most of them, I stayed behind with the driver, feeling a bit uncomfortable.
Within the main hall laid the body of the Col. Bennett. Protected by two guards, one held deathly still, and the other teetered forward and back. Flanked on either side of the guards was a botanical garden of offerings. In the center lay the mahogany casing of Col. Bennett. His casket was far too big for his small frail body, and seemed to have an extra coast of gloss. I was surprised that the mantel and sword did not slide off during the procession. I wondered if people thought the same and chose to hold their breath while they viewed the body. I know I did.
We stayed for but a short time. We went to supermarket right after. It was just another day at the office.