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Scrutape's life in El Salvador

Tuesday, June 28, 2005

The Individual v Collective Society

“We are alone here under the earth. It is a fearful word, alone.”
- Ayn Rand, Anthem


The necessity of a collective society is one that we have all been taught in school. Placing myself back in my Sociology/Anthropology lectures, the value of collectivisms serves to allow the individual to endure. But that word has many applications. One can apply Maslow’s hierarchy of need to this example, where, at the base, collectivism offers a society to produce and consume goods and serves. From these interactions roles are formed, and, for the most part, have remained in place today.

I speak of collectivism because for two weeks now I lived in a society which has, in some aspects maintained tribal traditions on family and social structure, From my middle class family from which I reside, to my recent weekend experience into the bipolar (of which I will explain), the social norms of this society in some cases are not too far from my own, but some cases use every faculty in my being to understand.

This past weekend, I was sent on an Immersion Day excursion to the tourist city of Suchitoto. The idea of Immersion Day is to depart to another city in another state, (or departamento) alone. The city of “Suchi” is prosperous, a truly tranquil gem that will no doubt be part of the El Salvadorian tour I will give to those that visit me. The city has one the best restaurants I’ve eaten at thus far, although the name escapes me. La Posada de Suchitlán is an elegant Spanish style hotel that has a remarkable view of Suchitoto looking far into dense green hills and the cities reservoir. The city also has a trendy internet café, a multitude of fine restaurants, and one of my favorite activities I partook, a bike ride to a nearby waterfall.

For the first two nights as part of my immersion experience I was to stay with a host family is a nearby town of La Mora. The town is an unofficial historical landmark, where the nearby mountains holds bomb shelters, bomb indentations and devastated houses and a church ravaged by the war. We climbed up those mountains armed with our machetes clearing the travel path for an upcoming tourist project. I hacked away with my right-handed “cuma“, since, as a surdo (left hander) I’m a bit of rarity and did not have a standard machete at my disposal. We past a few gravesites where I learned the bodies of children lay as a result of the bombings that leveled the mountain city.

With all of the history this city had, the level of poverty was unlike anything I had seen since my time here. Since my arrival, I have been fortune to be placed in a good home with a family well off my Salvadorian standards. This home I stayed in La Mora was something out of Kirosawa movie, where animals roamed free, and the floor was litter with feces, feed and leaves. The adolescents reeked of a smell I could only now understand as a result of humidity and lack of a proper hygiene regiment. One youth have his fingernails in his left hand grown at least an inch. The youth of this town spoke what you have often heard me talk of as, “campo Spanish*”. Unlike the high piched sign-waved nature of Mexican campo Spanish I was been accustomed to hearing, this one was low and I interpreted more of a hum in long and short intonations. I didn’t understand a word they spoke.

The two older woman I understood perfectly, as with the three younger children. You will see later some pictures I took of the city, along with some movie shorts. The two youngest children were indeed a gem, and I played with them all weekend long. For time, both lying in a hammock within the trees, reading my book and playing futbol with the children on the patio, the conditions didn’t seem so bad. But there is a reality to the situation that is without humor, and I experienced it first hand.

Sunday I left La Mora and returned to Suchitoto, the difference in the cities was no match for the layout in which the volunteer lived. Known as the exception to rule, I was told not to excpect similar conditions to what I was to encounter with the volunteer. He lived with Salvadorian roommates and hand a big screen TV with cable, a stereo system, a huge common area, liquor bottles emptied from a previous weekend, and with this home his own room twice the size the one I live. We ate well in Suchitoto, I even had glass of wine and a few beers, But such polarized difference between the two I still cannot fully wrap my head around it.

It leaves here thinking about Individuals and Collective Society. I don’t really have any conclusions other than experiences and notably results of the two. I am not favoring one for the other, but noting with restlessness that have been on my mind since I left the city.

• When I asked my family about the dialect differences between city and Cantón they have a very interesting answer: I understood the woman because they are “talk” a lot among themselves. They are a social group, not as in vogue homemakers, but at a groups of woman who communicate on a daily basis. The men, on the other hand, work very early on in age and very often do not communicate with other men while working the fields. Their jobs are solitary ones where communication is vastly limited.

I found this to be a very interesting idea.

Thursday, June 23, 2005

More Photos

Campo
Otherwise known as, “la cancha”, this is were I run M W F and Saturday & 5 am…keep in mind that I’m going to bed at 9:30 pm everyday. Sundays I run with my brother, Julio to the next city over, which is Verapaz, about a 20 minute run downhill, but buchica! It’s a hell of a climb back up. Sundays are also the days were the whole town goes down to the cancha to watch futbol games. My brother is on the team, I swear that mofo plays almost everyday. He promised to teach me, but I have to buy, “tacos”, first…which is slang for soccer shoes.


Erwin Con El Bicho
This is my older brother, Erwin, he’s 22, I think. That little cutie his kid, Manuelito. I swear that kid has 50 names, Bicho, Sipote, Nino, and a few others I forgot. Anyhow, he’s a total character, and you’ll see more of him in later photos and movies.


Jugando
Another shot of la cancha, just before everyone arrives.


Jugando Duex
The games begin. It’s a torrid relationship between my town of Guadalupe, a city, and the Canton of…Hmmm, I seem to have forgotten the name, but they’re famous for their chorizo.


Jugando Tres
Another shot, okay, I’m getting bored.


Jugando Cuatro
Bored.


Guadalupe
Here’s a shot of the famous volcano I live on.


Pauly Con Jessica
The girl on the left is my sister, Pauly, she goes to the Instituto, which located just above el campo. The girl to the right is Jessica, she is one of two also living in Guadalupe with me.


Escuela
As part of our community immersion, we visited the local elementary school. Here’s a shot of the enterance.


Escuela Duex
A shot of the school behind the gates.


Daily Routine
So apparently, the school is divided by “turnos”, one in the morning, and one in the afternoon. Morning students are accepted by a first come, first serve basis. The leftovers have to wait for the afternoon session. Apparently no one complains about the system, and it’s been in place for quite some time.


The Kids
I was fortunate to come when they had an assembly. Each month, schools around El Salvador talk about values, or “valores”. This month’s valore was Family. Other values are Work, Respect, Tolerance, Friendship, Responsibility, etc. It’s a really cool concept; they have workshops on the matter and public talks.


The Kids Duex
Another shot of the kids.


National Anthem (Movie)
At first I wasn’t sure what they were doing, but it’s the national anthem…damn it’s long.

The Onset

12/6/05 and some days after

Sunday, my first day of “rest”. It was today, and so wrongly I assumed, to be my day of rest, as the good Lord intended. But at this time I had not yet adapted to the conditions of the town. Nightly bar fights I can sleep through, my parents keep asking me, “did the bolos (drunks) keep you awake last night?” “No”, I answered sleepily, casting a hateful glare of with my heavy eyes in the direction of the lifestock, out their, somewhere, lurking in this mountain town.

I’d like to take the time to address a topic of utmost importance.

Lies My Teacher Told Me:

• Roosters do not crow at dawn…they crow whenever they damn well please. This includes all hours of the day, including 1, 2, and 3 am
• Roosters are like dogs, when one crows, they all crow

There’s livestock all over the place. Oddly enough there isn’t the smell associated with the fact, but I think that’s due to the humidity and the funk we emit as a result. Ah yes, Mother Nature, you sly devil you.

21/6/05

It’s been some two weeks of sobriety up until yesterday, where we took back the night by enjoying two beers each at a local restaurant before catching our bus. We drank, “Pilsener”, because, “es algo de cheros” (or something like that) and because it’s El Salvadorian. Friends, it is to my great dismay that I felt the effects of two beers. Long gone are days of Grey Goose and tonic (can’t drink the water) with a twist of lime, and other long-lived nights. We blurrily all looked at one another and laughed, “holy shit, I’m buzzed” we concluded.

I have left out a great deal of detail, concerning my living conditions, my family, religion, and the dreaded buses of this country. I hope to have time in the near future to address them. Unfortunately, Peace Corps does not allot very much time to socialize. Since I live in one of the furthest towns, my time and privacy is greatly limited. Oh, but you say, “there will be time, there will be time, for the cups the tea and the marmalade”, to which I do agree, but that time is not until I am off on my own in August, and there is so much that I would like to share.

This Friday I am leaving my pueblo of Guadalupe to live with another host family in another city, in what Peace Corps has coined, Immersion Day. I will live at the site of a Volunteer and essentially shadow him/her until the Lord’s Day where I then return to my happy home. Very briefly, life here in Guadalupe is fantastic and I couldn’t ask for a better family. They are warm and invited, consisting of 10 members that live here, with additional members that range day by day. Although it sounds enormous, well, maybe not the Latinos reading this, for all others, it’s a big enough property and not everyone is here all at once. Plus I have my own room. Until next time I bit you all adieu,

Ricardo

Tuesday, June 21, 2005

Contact Information

For those of you who plan on sending Richard hate mail or care packages, please send all correspondence to:

PCV Richard Mora
Apartado Postal 1947
Correo Nacional
Centro de Gobierno
San Salvador, El Salvador

Saturday, June 18, 2005

The Journey Begins...

Here is a snapshot of my first few days:


All of Us
Well, here we are, all 28 of us. Unfortunately, one dropped out at the airport. We’re sharing one final good meal.



Grubbin’
Andrea, Jessica, and myself. Yes, I am the one with the Chianti. Until the bitter end, my friends.



Last Meal
I ordered the Salmon and vegetables, with, course, a glass of chianti.



Rachael’s Meal
This is what some else ordered, but I forget exactly what it was.



Atlanta Airport
Haha, it says Juke, haha.


The Posse (1 of 4)



The Posse (2 of 4)



The Posse (3 of 4)



The Posse (4 of 4)



Discoteque!



View From Hotel in San Viciente
After orientations we walked a few blocks to Le Roach Motel, really, no really, OMG…I see why they keep you up…so you’re so tired by the end you don’t care where you lay your head. We were here for two days.

Tuesday, June 14, 2005

A Brave New World

Hola!

And so on June 8th I left for a Brave New World. A combination of fatigue and excitement filled my body I remember. By the time I had reach El Salvador, I had been awake for close to 24 hours, I, along with the rest of us, a total of 27 souls had these haggard looks on our faces which could be mistaken for madness, as ours eyes bulged from our sockets and teeth peered through our maniacal grin as we landed at the capital, San Salvador.

Originally, there were 28 of us, a man by the name of Colin, who decided at the airport that he could not continue the journey with us, abruptly left. It was a decision only he could understand, but the reasons where well inside our own minds. I cannot help but feel the need to include him here early on, since he was part of the original group.



Life here in El Salvador has been non-stop. It is only now, in a small city in El Salvador, Guadalupe, that I finally have time to share some of my exploits. To begin, we arrived in El Salvador on June 8th, about 12pm (11 am your time). We were quickly were round up by Peace Corps staff and taken through customs. PC staff are an amazing ensemble of characters, boisterous, confident, and amiable. They quickly made us feel welcomed and were prompt getting us out of the airport, and piled into an old battered bus, which I think now was rented by Peace Corps, because I have not heard about nor seen it since. The first thing you notice about El Salvador is the humidity. It is very humid right now, and apparently this is the coolest time of year. I have to take two showers a day, which really is pointless because you are literally drenched in sweat right after,

On the first day, because of sheer exhaustion I began to hallucinate and doze in between information sessions, so really, what happened on that first day is scattered. I remember the bus took us outside San Salvador to a city called San Viciente. The view is such a marvel to me, a far cry from what I expected and from what certain people made me believe El Salvador would look like, of which I will not share, but you know who you are. The drive to San Viciente was a serene display of sugar cane, foliage, and mountain ranges far off in the distance. The sheer greenery of this place is amazing; I can’t help but feel like Jurassic Park is such a short bus ride away. The city of San Viciente, at first glance would remind you of Mexico, it is densely packed with awkward sidewalks, busy streets, and of course, short little brown people speaking Spanish. But I am quickly learning it is only because I am referencing something familiar with something unfamiliar…to make familiar. I’ve kept this to myself, but would like to share it with you.

The Peace Corps compound, which is actually quite large, accommodated our luggage and all 27 bodies as comfortable as could be, given the lethargy and humidity of El Salvador. It was here that we were given introductions and safety information, and of course dinner: pupusas. After that we all walked to our hotel and reported back to the compound the next day. The rest are formalities, but as of today I am living with my host family is Guadalupe, where I will be for the next 3 months during my training. I want to dedicate a whole email to this experience, and will save it for next time.

I have pictures to share soon!


Some interesting things I have learned so far:

· chu chu is slang for dogs

· tacos is slang for shoes used to play soccer

· Things are damn cheap over here.

· Cojer apparently is a sexual term…which, by the way, is one of many words that I am using wrong. Apparently I’m a perv in Spanish as well, but I didn’t even know it. But I have been corrected

· Vale is not a term used here, but I still use it, haha

· In fact, no Castillian phrases translate

· This goes for some Mexican as well

· I swear if I here “Gasolina” one more time…

· I’m damn tired